Rooftops Photo Gallery

It’s just over two years since I started our companion photo gallery of buildings in high places and remote locations. Those who love mountains and wilderness where the wind blows free and clean, will know that these are places for reflection and release, for solitude and renewal. The buildings are if you like, one key to unlocking the nature of place. In Camus’ phrase here you can feel ‘beside oneself’.

The simple building opposite was originally a shepherd’s cottage in Cumbria on the moors above Penrith. Despite its proximity to a road and bridleway to Selah Bridge, it has all the feel of a wild retreat with a stunning panorama.

All these buildings are set in magnificent landscapes. The highest at 4400m is a Civil War frontier post on the 18 km ‘Rooftop of Africa traverse’ in Ethiopia’s Simien mountains; the lowest is 300 BC Mousa Broch in the Shetlands at 6m. We have learnt as we have collected the images that there is a key ingredient. Behind each of the pictures is a human story of engagement with that landscape – a story of toil, travel, exploration, warfare, farming and so on. Who has built them and why? Who has lived here? Who has left? How does this nomadic child in Kyrgyzstan on horseback with his father on the ancient Silk Road receive his schooling at 3500m?

To expand on our pictures, we have included some photos which show the people living there and hint at their life stories. Most recently we have added photos taken on the classic Haute Route long distance walk between Chamonix and Zermatt; and from South India’s Western Ghats in Kerala where at 1600 metres, technology has made it possible for families in remote villages to watch World Cup cricket via satellite dishes.

Most poignantly we have included a triptych of images of crofts at Calgary Bay on the island of Mull. Deserted by crofters in poverty in the 19th century, they are a reminder of how families then just as now are forced to leave their homelands in search of work and a new life. Does the photo below of Calgary Bay with its rays of sun piercing a cold sea reflect that new life or the chimera that has betrayed so many migrants in the past?

The gallery has been a great cooperative venture and we hope that in reading this you will want to send us other pictures for inclusion. We now have 57 photos, of which half have been supplied by other people. We would like to express our thanks to Barney Harford, Chloe Harford, David Harrison, John Loudon, Liz Moore, Jim Richardson and lastly Mog Empson for his translation of the wording on a refuge wall (see opposite) in Tiger Leaping Gorge In China. We have been greatly encouraged by their support.

Don’t forget to click here for a look at the photos in the Gallery! If you would like a full size image (2Mb-3Mb) of one of these photos to print out or for a Christmas present just email me (ian@lakelandbelvedere.com) for a copy. And if you like what you see on the site, why not pass the details to your friends?

Of belvederes and ospreys

They’ve got minds of their own, we thought, but that’s not surprising for a couple who’ve come over 3,000 miles from West Africa. Like others though we’ve been keeping the change in their exact domestic arrangements quiet this year, as they are VIPs whom we would not like to see frightened away.

Yes, you’ll have guessed that we are talking about the ospreys, who returned this year to the Derwent Valley in April. Since we built the Belvedere three years ago with its wide range view across the marshes, we’ve been keeping an eye out for the ospreys. In 2008 they moved, conveniently for us, to a site in Dodd Wood which was visible from the Belvedere, though hard to see in any detail as over 1.5 miles distant.

This year they caught the RSPB, Forestry Commission and us by surprise by deciding to set up their nest in a completely new and much closer site at the top of a large dead tree on the other side of the A66. No human help this time with the construction work!

We first got wind of this in May, when we saw a descending hang glider over Thornthwaite, being examined by a circling osprey. The new nest we realised was on the marshes and less than 800 metres away. From the belvedere it’s almost directly in line with the church, Without my binoculars I was not able to check the site out.

We received news however last week from Lee Gretton who was staying at The Larches in August. He confirmed what we thought: “The osprey’s nest is easy to view from the Belvedere. I spent quite a lot of time with the binoculars watching them flying across the marshes”. The photo at the top shows the view through the binoculars of the bare tree with the nest. The site is indicated with a grey magnifying glass at bottom left of the photo.

That was indeed good news, especially for anyone staying at The Larches for the five months, April to August. But there was another nice surprise when we arrived in Chicago. “It was too difficult to send it”, said our son Barney, “but here’s a late birthday present I thought you’d like and could find room for”.

The super colour tinted photo from the turn of the century (see opposite) is of New York’s own Belvedere in Central Park. It will most likely join the Escher Belvedere print we already have in our own fine viewing point at The Larches.

A postcard from America

In the US this month visiting family, we’re spending time in multi ethnic Chicago getting to know more of its history, character and traditions.

The second biggest city in the US and centre of the Midwest, Chicago first grew to importance in the mid 19th century when the railroads and water ways enabled it to operate as the entrepôt for a huge hinterland of cattle grazing and food production.

Chicago was home to the gangster, Al Capone and blues musician, Muddy Waters. The world’s first skyscraper (138 feet tall) was built here in 1885 – to be followed by many more (see photo opposite of Trump Tower); and most recently the city has seen one of its own, Barack Obama, become the USA’s first black president.

In the neighbourhoods on the north side of the city we’ve been to the excellent Chicago History Museum and explored the buildings and architecture of the Old Town; and taken a look at the mansions of the Gold Coast, where over the years some of Chicago’s richest have lived – from Abraham Lincoln’s son in the 1860′s to Hugh Hefner with his Playboy empire in the 1960′s.

As one friend put it “Chicago is the best real city in the US, assured and vibrant – apart from the weather that is!” It’s hot and steamy in August and bitterly cold in the winter months. And yes it’s windy too but what else would you expect in a city with such a long waterfront?

Lake Michigan on which Chicago is built, is 307 miles long by 118 miles wide and together with the four other great lakes makes up 20% of the world’s fresh water resources and 95% of America’s. One threat to this priceless environmental benefit it should be noted is the Asian carp. An alien fish with an enormous appetite, this was introduced in the 1970s from China in the south and now threatens to invade the Great Lakes and upset their ecological balance.

You can easily imagine Lake Michigan is a sea as the four photos below of bikers and bathers show. No wonder Americans call this huge lake their third ocean!


Linking the past with the future

People visit the Lake District for so many reasons – its history and traditions, fresh air, walking, fell running, climbing, biking, boating, mountains, lakes, changing colours and great landscapes. As a reflection of this perhaps, the Lake District National Park has this month won first place in a readers’ survey as the best of the 14 national parks in the country.

But just why does the area continue to exercise this strong hold on our imaginations? The more time I spend in Cumbria and the Lakes, the more I become fascinated with how the present has been fashioned from the past, how far the ebb and flow of people’s lives here have changed over the years, how the demographics of the area are altering and what the future holds in a rapidly changing economy.

I plan to explore some of these questions by talking with people in the area and getting their insights for this blog. If you know anyone who would be interesting to interview, please let me know.

In the meantime there’s a resource, which can be of use to anyone else interested in these questions. Google Books is a project for creating digital copies of all the world’s 129 million books and has been under discussion since 2004.

Although there’s been dispute about aspects of the project, already 15 million books have been copied and are available online. It’s an example for me of how technologies are opening up spaces, which in the past we could never dream of occupying.

This view is not shared by all as I found when reading Michael Holroyd’s recent comments at the Edinburgh Book Festival, lamenting the decline of biography: “I have a nostalgia for visiting private houses to find letters and journals and to root around in the attic,” he said. “But the fact that a lot of material now is on the computer takes the romance out of it, and now it’s about examining what lies behind the delete button – the horror”.

I understand his nostalgia, but why regret the fact that so much more is now available on a computer which a writer can draw upon with ease from her desk without travelling for hours to a distant library? For many years to come the unpublished letters and papers will still be there in the attic!

Nor is this a resource just for the scholarly. The web opens up radical new ways of informal learning for all, which we are only just starting to explore. Some of the emerging themes on this issue can be seen in a recent discussion on the ‘Ambient Learning City’.

Back then to Google Books! When we were at the ‘Savage Grandeur’ landscape exhibition at the Wordsworth Trust in May, I was fascinated by a late 18th century book, West’s Guide to the Lakes, but the glass covered case only allowed me to see two pages.

Now with Google books I have had access to the entire book! The lovely engraving opposite of the Lodore Falls in the Derwent Valley and taken from the Guide provides just a glimpse of the treasures now available for all. And there is a bonus too – you can save on your petrol costs by not having to drive to a distant library!

Localism & public services

Last week the Government published its long delayed White Paper on Public Services Reform.

It’s nice to see that The Economist (“Little platoons on a slow march“, 16 July, page 29) chose a similar illustration to accompany its coverage of this as I did in my last posting a month ago on Cameron’s Big Society. (CamBigs)

When local services are cut, my photo (opposite) showed the gully clearing work I had needed to do as a volunteer with my mattock, rake and scythe.

The Economist cartoon (see below) showed a whole line of volunteers with similar equipment and Cameron in his overalls out there in front leading the troop with a sweeper and shovel in hand! Industrial scale voluntarism is a not so secret core ingredient of CamBigs.

As predicted the White Paper doesn’t contain anything very new about the Big Society. There’s an emphasis on localism (parish councils may have more to do), greater choice, diversity, fairness and accountability.

It all sounds very worthy. Some apologists see this as a radical shake up of public services and decentralisation away from Whitehall. But the rub will come with implementation because public service budgets for local councils, the police and elsewhere are being cut to the bone.

Will privatisation really bring the results for CamBigs when there’s no money on offer? And if not, where will all the armies of volunteers come from? I don’t think I’m very typical, nor my friend Peter who helped me!