Mallory, Everest & The Lakes

What makes you a good candidate for climbing Everest and taking on a challenge which will require spending time in the ‘Death Zone’, the top reaches of the world’s highest mountain? We’ve been thinking more about this since seeing for a second time ‘The Wildest Dream’, the film of Mallory’s and Irving’s fateful attempt on the Everest summit in 1924.

We’ve met people from Europe and the US, who’ve wondered if there is anywhere in the UK, where the altitude and mountains can really prepare you for the conditions you’re likely to meet in the Himalayas.

If you have experience of winter walking or climbing in Scotland or the Lakes, you will of course know the answer. Last year we met Jon Bennett, one of the Helvellyn climbers who daily report in the winter on conditions at the top. He described taking five hours summiting from Thirlmere through snow drifts up to five feet deep. That’s tough!

And back in the 80s we remember a fierce August night beside wild Loch Avon below Cairngorm, when we just managed to hold up our tent with our two young children beside us in the tail end of a violent Hurricane Harry. We survived, but sadly we learnt on our return that a German father had that same night lost one of his two young children through hypothermia when trying to cross the plateau from Braemar to Aviemore. He had been used to the Alps and wasn’t ready for the Scottish weather.

Yes, the conditions on our high fells, though under 1000m, can still be arctic even in summer and can prepare you for the worst. We were reminded of this when reading Graham Ratcliffe’s, ‘A day to die for’, an account of the Everest climb back in 1996, when eight people tragically lost their lives.

Ratcliffe points out there that the photographer Bentley Beetham – whose impressive photos of the 1924 expedition and of the tent, where Mallory and Irving spent their last night alive, have helped to maintain interest in the expedition – learnt his mountain skills as a young teenager in the Lake District. Not for nothing do they call Keswick the climbing and outdoor capital of England!

There is a great website of the whole of Beetham’s oeuvre in the Himalayas, which has recently been created by a new Trust in association with the University of Durham.

Memorial day for two cyclists

Last weekend brought out a large crowd of cyclists to pay tribute to two brothers, Christian Townend and Nicholas Townend from the Cockermouth area. These young men were tragically killed in a road accident last December while cycling on the busy A595. They were keen cyclists, returning from an outing in the Silloth area.

The day was unusually sunny and warm for early May, with a light wind and the smell of blossom on the air. More than 170 cyclists made their way through the narrow country lanes to the village hall above the Kirkstile Inn, near Loweswater to pay their respects.

It was a fitting tribute to the two young men and a reminder of the need for drivers in the narrow lanes and winding roads of the Lake District to pay particular attention to the needs of cyclists and walkers. The photo shows just a few of the bikes of those attending the event at the village hall. Behind is Mellbreak a lovely peak to the west of Crummock Water, which can be part of an interesting day’s walk in these western fells.

Seat 66 on a sunny day

The weather this Easter has been remarkable – one sunny day after another; and the garden at The Larches has been a joy to explore. It’s been ideal too for meals and drinks on any of the terraces and great for just soaking up the views.

Sitting on Sunday in the Belvedere with a cup of tea at the top of the garden, I realised the range of what you can see from within the Belvedere is wider than I had thought and that I could get a marvellous shot which takes in both Ullock Pike and Skiddaw to the north and Clough Head to the east. The resulting image is the wide angle picture below on a 14:9 image scale on my Lumix camera.

So why the ‘Seat 66′ in the title? Well it’s a playful compliment to a favourite website of mine – The Man in Seat Sixty-One. Created by Mark Smith, a career railwayman, this superb site helps you to discover the best routes and prices for travelling by train round Europe and other continents. The title owes its origins to Mark discovering that the best seat for views and comfort on any Eurostar train is No 61.

My journey in the Belvedere is different though. It’s a journey of the mind as I sit and gaze over the Derwent Valley and the A66 and plan my next walk or fell run in these northern hills. Yesterday we were up climbing Barf and Lord’s Seat behind the cottage and had wonderful views across Bassenthwaite and then to the Solway Firth. Just for the record the photo above shows the route of the A66 from below Barf as it streaks south towards Keswick and Derwentwater.

wide view from deck

Janus-faced Blencathra

River Glenderamackin You can’t miss it as you drive towards Keswick on the A66 from Penrith. Blencathra (868 metres) rises on the right, a huge bulk of a mountain with its fells dropping sharply down to Threlkeld and Scales. The most common routes to the top are from the south, but there’s a spectacular circular 9 mile route with an approach up the mountain’s gentler face. It starts from the north east and is less steep than the southern approaches. Why not try it out?

I hadn’t been up Blencathra for over 15 years. The last time was by climbing Hall’s Fell one Christmas Day morning in snow and getting temporarily lost in the cloud. But this last month I’ve been sizing it up again for the Ski Club of Manchester’s annual May Day walk.

Mungrisdale and start of walk. The start of this alternative route is Mungrisdale, (Map reference NY 365303) a small hamlet with a few houses (225 m) at the northern end of Souther Fell, an outlier of the Blencathra massif. There’s also a good pub there, serving lunches and afternoon tea - the Mill Inn.

The walk is initially along the River Glenderamackin, but after a short while the path heads up and away in a westerly direction to leave The Tongue behind on the right. The ascent is gradual until the head of the escarpment when you turn SW, skirt Bannerdale Crags on the left and drop down a little to the col (585 m), where the Glenderamackin rises. 

View south to Helvellyn & Thirlmere A steady climb towards the ridge, passing initially Foule Crags, veers to the left over an easy enough scree route to reach Atkinson Pike (840 m). From here the path keeps mainly on the level, until you reach the highest point of Blencathra at the top of Hall’s Fell. 

It feels like the top of the world! If the weather’s good, there are tremendous views to the south and west, taking in the whole of the Helvellyn range, Thirlmere, Derwentwater and the NW fells. To the north you get a glimpse of the Solway Firth. Below are Threlkeld and the old quarries on the edge of Clough Head. 

For the descent retrace your steps a short way, then drop down in an easterly direction. To the left and below is Scales Tarn while on the opposite side of the corrie is the exposed Sharp Edge ascent to the top. There’s a fine path winding over grassy Scales Fell, which soon becomes a ridge with a steep drop on the right to Scaley Beck. Then make for the saddle above Mousthwaite Comb. 

For the last stage of the walk the climb up over Souther Fell is short and easy, but in places a bit boggy. The green fields and copses below and to the east mark clearly the dividing line from these high eastern fells. Our descent now is by picking up some tracks where the sheep over the years have traced out green paths through the bracken. Little known or used by walkers, they are not initially obvious from the summit ridge. They make however an easy descent and bring you to the road, just 300 yards short of the Mill Inn.

I’ve met several fell runners on this route, so will have to try it out for myself now. But I will wait for when the weather’s fine. On the top it can be very cold and it’s easy to get disoriented in heavy cloud.
 

Time for the Derwent’s turn

P1000886 It’s played some nasty tricks in its time and we can’t forget the chaos caused by its flooding of Cockermouth and Workington in November 2009. But Cumbria’s River Derwent, a delight of the northern lakes, must be one of the least recognised features of the region, given its importance in creating the landscape of the area and bringing fresh waters for fish, tourism and ospreys.

Granted it has its own Derwentwater, but I seem to be one of the few people who deliberately talks about the Derwent Valley and the Derwent marshes which we look out across from the Belvedere at The Larches.

Starting its journey below Great End and above Sprinkling Tarn as Grains Gill, this crystal clear flow of water turns into the River Derwent below Rosthwaite, but immediately becomes immersed in and sidelined by Borrowdale as it winds through the wild crags and oak woods past Grange to Derwentwater.

P1010988 It is one of the longest rivers in Cumbria, but sidles through the countryside so quietly that few people can tell exactly how it gets past Keswick or pin down its route from Bassenthwaite through to Cockermouth and finally to the sea at Workington.

The photos above show firstly an osprey’s eye view from Dodd Wood of the river as it winds its way down to Bassenthwaite, with the magnificent encircling of the Derwent Valley by the mountains to the west. The second is a winter view from near Falcon Crags of the Derwent Valley to the south of Derwentwater with Dalehead and the Derwent Fells behind.

I hope this blog will make a few people explore the River Derwent more positively. We are  pleased to show below this lovely little 19th century painting we acquired years ago from a church hall on Tyneside, which was about to be demolished. Entitled “On the River Derwent”, it was painted about 1870 by Harry Williams, a Liverpool artist, specialising In landscapes. He had no doubt about the role of the River Derwent in creating this Cumbrian landscape but used a little artistic license to ramp up the wildness of the surrounding hills! If you can find and take a photo of the same scene, I will make sure we put it on the website.

Williams painting of Derwent